The time spent in Buenos Aires (which came from the name Port of St Mary of the Fair Winds, Santa Maria del Buenos Aires being the patron saint of the early sailors who visited these shores of the Rio de la Plata in early 1500’s), can be likened to dancing the Tango - absorbing, entrancing and at times a spectacle. It has been a time of different rhythm, of responding to one’s partners moves and engaging with people where the common use of one’s own language does not work. This forces one to resort to other ways of connection from kissing everyone on the right cheek, to wild gesticulation, rampant mispronunciation or handing written addresses with hopes that the taxi driver will take you there and not on a ride to visit all the sights before depositing you on the pavement.  In other ways it has encouraged walking from place to place allowing a more intimate experience of this vast high rise city for both the living and the dead and life of its inhabitants. Included amongst who is an abundance of furry four-footed friends, which seem to take delight in leaving fresh reminders of their presence just where you are about to place your foot. My son, with wry humour, suggested that maybe this was the beginning of the elaborate steps of the Tango…..  

Buenos Aires is a place where one seems to eat from morning to morning where the coffee and the sweet tempting pastries are in abundance and in their multifaceted folds and fillings, reflect the rich diversity and warm heart of the people. Even the prevailing  general tension and uncertainty created by the farmers’ protests with 300,000 taking to the streets in campaign against increased taxation on their profits, generated positive images of flags and people involved in effective democracy.   The apartment where we stay is in the heart of down-town which provides easy access to a variety of interesting places. Proyecto’ace however is situated in Colegiales, three stops down the Mitre line and then a short walk from the station. It is housed in a restored 19^th century apartment with elegant high ceilings and well designed working spaces that reflect the founder, Alicia’ Candiani’s, skill as both printmaker and architect. Coming in off the street, having negotiated crossings which require looking the opposite way so not to be mown down by no-stop traffic, ‘Malcolm don’t expect anyone to stop for you at pedestrian crossings’ and what seems like all 13 million of the city’s population on the pavements, an old marble staircase leads you up into an oasis of quiet and order. This incorporates well-equipped print studio with two etching presses, darkroom, office, gallery and a space where each day we gather to eat and socialize.   Assisted by her team of Alvaro, Patricia, Adriana, Valeria and Bruno, Proyecto’ace is a much-respected and involved force within the arts in Buenos Aires.   As reflected in the workshop participants who were from all over Argentina and included young and established artists and faculty, each brought a personal insight and a passion for the arts which was continuously affirmed in the number of openings and exhibitions that we have attend.  Plans are in the making to continue this partnership, with Alicia visiting Caversham Centre next year.  Thanks to all at PROYECTO’ace for making this such an enjoyable experience. 

Malcolm